filtre-interne-aquarium-ouvert-oxygene

Can we really do without a filter? The secret of the living nitrogen cycle

F. Mattier

If I began fishkeeping in 1981, it was in 2004, following experience and the discovery of the concept of the poubellarium, that I theorized and started to publicly assert that the motorized water filter was unnecessary in a well-thought-out aquarium. People looked at me like I was an alien. For many, it was total heresy. The fishkeeping trade at the time hammered into us that a powerful pump was needed, circulating three to four times the tank volume per hour, or else our ecosystem would collapse in a few days.

Yet, my tanks ran wonderfully. The water was crystal clear, the fish in great health, and the plants lush. Not a hint of a motor.

Today, I would like to share with you my experience as a pioneer of Low Tech. I will explain why the filterless aquarium is not a fancy idea of a dreamer, but rather the logical outcome of a true understanding of the natural nitrogen cycle.

internal-aquarium-filter-open-oxygen

1. The historical anecdote: when the electric train dives into the water 🚂

To understand our dependence on the filter, we must go back in time. Did you know how the first motorized pump filters for aquariums were born in the 1960s?

They were not invented by biologists seeking to improve fish life. They are the result of diversification by a famous German company… that made electric trains and toys! They had the small motors, saw a budding market, and created the need.

The mechanical filter is therefore, above all, a triumph of industrial marketing over biology. Patience and observation were replaced by an electric plug.

internal-aquarium-filter-with-filter-media

2. The true home of bacteria (spoiler: it’s not the plastic box) 🦠

The number one argument of filter sellers is "biological filtration": the filter would be the essential home of good bacteria.

This is biologically false. Nitrifying bacteria (those that transform toxic ammonia into nitrites, then nitrates) do not live "in" the suspended water, nor exclusively in the ceramic rings of your filter. They attach to surfaces.

In a natural aquarium, these bacteria colonize every grain of sand, every glass pane, every root, every leaf. Remember the old "undergravel" filters of our grandparents! They understood one fundamental thing: it is the soil and the decor that have always been the true engines of the aquarium. The equivalent of your filter is your soil. The plastic box is only a tiny surface compared to the vastness of your decor.


3. The nitrate paradox and the CO2 problem 💨

The modern filter suffers from two huge flaws that are often kept quiet.

The first is the nitrate factory.
Your filter, like the bacteria in your soil, is very good at transforming toxic waste into nitrates. But then? It stops there. It saturates your water with nitrates (which encourage algae), forcing you to do massive water changes. In my heavily planted tanks, I measure 0 nitrate. Why? Because my plants (emerged, floating, fast-growing) are the only true way to consume these final nitrates.

The second is the loss of CO2.
A filter stirs the surface. This excessive stirring causes degassing: it drives the precious CO2 naturally present in the water into the open air. By doing this, you deprive your plants of their main fuel, thus weakening the only true purification power of your tank.


4. Protecting life and rethinking organic load 🐌

My refusal of the filter is also an ethical choice to protect life. I have lost count of the number of fry, tiny shrimps, or water lice I have seen crushed by rotors or trapped to death in synthetic sponges. Without a filter, the microfauna swims and reproduces in peace.

And do not believe the myth that a tank without a filter can only hold "very few fish." The organic load is not linked to the power of a pump, but to the ratio between your plants and your fish. Many vigorous plants can support a good population, provided common sense is applied.

aquatic-water-lice-microfauna-natural-aquarium

5. My method for a smooth transition (weaning) 🛠️

If you already have a filtered tank and want to take the step to a natural aquarium, do not unplug everything overnight! Here is my 4-step method for a gentle weaning:

Step 1: prepare nitrate absorption

Plants do not replace the filter’s role (they do not transform ammonia), but they are essential to absorb the final result: nitrates. Before starting the transition, boost your plant mass. Add massively fast-growing plants (Hornwort, Elodea) and surface plants (Salvinias, Large duckweeds) which are the biggest consumers of pollution.

Step 2: reseed with microfauna

The filter sucked up and accumulated physical waste. Without it, detritivores will do this meticulous work of breaking down waste on the soil. Introduce Water lice, Ostracods, and make sure you have a good team of snails (Malaysian Trumpet Snails to stir the sand, Ramshorn snails for the leaves). They will colonize the decor and replace the mechanical action of your blue sponges.

🔗 the Starter ZollaBox (Microfauna and Bacteria)

starter-zollabox-natural-aquarium-microfauna


Step 3: gradual weaning and the golden rule of removal

Do not cut the pump suddenly. Over about 15 days, gradually reduce your filter’s flow (if adjustable) or slightly block the outlet. This slowdown will allow the bacteria present in your soil and on your decor to multiply naturally to compensate for the weakening of the microbial population in the filter.

⚠️ THE GOLDEN RULE: after these 15 days, when you stop the motor for good, you must immediately remove the filter from the aquarium.
A stopped filter left in the water will quickly become an oxygen-free environment. The filter media, trapped waste, and especially billions of bacteria will die very fast and release a massive toxic pollution into your tank. Stop it, take it out!

Step 4: observation rather than chemistry

Put away your anxiety-inducing chemical test kits. Watch the living! If your fish breathe calmly, if your snails (Malaysian Trumpet Snails) stay quietly in the soil instead of fleeing to the surface, it means the natural nitrogen cycle has successfully taken over.

malaysian-trumpet-snail-glass-aquarium-open

Conclusion

Choosing "without filter" is ultimately freeing yourself from a technical constraint to reconnect with observation. It is accepting to trust nature and your soil, which have millions of years of lead over our plastic pumps.

If I could do it at a time when everyone thought I was crazy, you can do it today, supported by the Aquazolla community. Unplug the plug, remove the box, and watch life settle in! 😉

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5 comments

Bonsoir,
Merci pour cet article, c’est instructif et inspirant. Ça reprend en grande partie l’application du système Jaubert ou du Deep Sand Bed en récifal, plutôt low tech et efficaces.
Ça me fait cogiter et ça amène plusieurs questions ;

- Sans filtre oui, mais avec pompe de brassage ? (ex du système Jaubert justement) Il y a des poissons qui apprécient une eau lente, mais certains ont besoin de courant, qui a d’autres intérêts comme déplacer les masses d’eau et éviter l’accumulation de matière et la stratification de la chaleur.

-Même question pour les pompes à air ; est-ce un atout utile dans un aquarium sans filtre ou sans pompe de brassage ? Les plantes vont fournir du O2 en journée, mais pas de nuit (sauf les Isoetes, les seules plantes aquatiques en Crassulacean Acid Metabolism).

-Sur l’ordre des étapes pour enlever un filtre, l’ensemble me paraît logique, mais est-ce qu’il ne vaudrait pas mieux faire la 3 (couper le filtre) avant la 2 ? Si justement le filtre fait partie du problème pour la microfaune, est-ce qu’on ne risque pas de bousiller toutes les bestioles en 15 jours ?

Merci pour votre retour !
Aurélien

Aurélien

Tout semble si simple lorsque vous l’expliquez, que j’ai plusieurs fois voulu tenter la séduisante aventure du lowtech ! La 1ère fois pour mes killis, la seconde pour des crevettes, en suivant bien tous les conseils. Eh bien je dois vraiment être nulle parce qu’à chaque fois c’est l’échec…! Les aquariums ne cyclent jamais, les nitrites restent trop haut… dès l’ajout d’une toute petite pompe, oh miracle : les nitrites disparaissent et l’aquarium devient viable pour les animaux ! Le plus inquiétant est que je ne m’en serais pas rendue compte sans mes fameux tests en gouttes de “petit chimiste” et aurais béatement introduit mes animaux dans un bac pourtant toxique… Je ne sais pas ce que j’ai raté… ceci dit ça fonctionne pour la microfaune qui n’a visiblement pas de problème à se reproduire dans ces conditions !

Léa

What about maintaining an even temperature? The filter works with a pump which moves the water creating a cyclical flow from an outlet on one side to an intake on the other. This flow disperses the warmer water close to the heater throughout the aquarium to give an even temperature.

Paul E

Bonjour,
effectivement je suis entièrement d’accord avec vous concernant l’aquarium en lui même, aussi cet aquarium ne peut pas supporter certaines espèces vivant dans des eaux plus chaudes car les plantes ne supportent pas toutes des températures élevée.
Lorsque j’explique le principe je parle de biotope adapté a la vie de certaines espèces de plantes et poissons vivant en harmonie.
Cordialement
Christophe

chrétien

Merci pour votre article.
Si aucune pompe n’est présente dans le bac, quid de l’homogénéité des paramètres physico-chimiques de l’eau, de la température, de la teneur en CO2 etc…?
Merci d’avance pour votre réponse.

Geoffrey

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